Climbing areas in surroundings of Jetrichovice

(adapted from book: Pískovcové skály v Cechách - horolezecký průvodce, Severní Cechy II., V. Slouka a kol., 1980

and zones: Jetrichovice, Srbská Kamenice and Všemily, Vysoká Lípa and Tokán complemented by: Lezecký průvodce - Jetrichovicko, HK Varnsdorf, 1997)

 

 

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ENGLISH

VOCABULARY

 

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of sandstone climbing terminology

ÚDOLÍ LABE (ELBE´S VALLEY)

Administrator of zone: Jindrich Švihnos, U studánky 61, 407 22, Benešov n. Pl., tel: 0412/586470

Large rocky zone Elbe´s valley covers climbing-towers on both sides of river Elbe (Labe) between Decín and state border with Germany. Left bank of river Elbe - in this part there are 52 towers (among them several half-massives with high valley´s walls). The highest and fairest towers are in surrounding of Dolní Zleb there, other towers aren´t considerable enough - they are sinked in the wood and therefore very often wet. Access to towers is from railway-stations of CD (Czech railways) "Prostrední Zleb", "Certova voda" and "Dolní Zleb" on the track Decín-Dolní Zleb. To the towers nr. 51 and 52 is access from town quarter "Jaluvcí" - transport from Decín´s main station by town-bus. Possibility to camp by tower nr. 34 - by pond 250 m from this tower. In the rocks there is sufficiency of sources of spring water.

Right bank of river Elbe - much more valuable and much sought-after for climbers, it is treated the most significant zone of protected area "Elbe´s sandstones". Towers are characterized by high valley´s walls (as many as 80 m) with wide offer of long and worthy climbing ways. Sandstone is very consistent. Whole zone is part of protected area "Elbe´s sandstones". Access to towers is either from Elbe from bus-stations Podskalí, Dolní Zleb-ferry and Hrensko on the bus-track Decín-Hrensko-Vysoká Lípa or from above from bus-stations Bynovec and Labská Strán on the bus-track Decín-Labská Strán. Possibility to camp and bivouac in the neigbourhood (tower nr. 42). Sources of spring water are only in the middle part of valley.

In this enumeration of rocks aren´t named climbing towers on the left bank of Elbe.

 

HRENSKO

An important rock-climbing area Hrensko, which is situated in the heart of Czech-Saxon Switzerland, we divided into two extensive groups. Group "Soutesky" (Gorges) are made up of towers, which are disbanded in shoulders of breath-taking canyon of river Kamenice. Towers are from soft, partly breaking sandstone, (prohibition of climbing when the sandstone is wet) and they don´t attain large heights.This group is accessible from the road Hrensko-Mezní Louka and digression to Mezná (bus-stations Hrensko-Soutesky, Mezní Louka, Mezná), and from the road Ružová-Janov (bus station Janov-Hájenky).

Group of rocks "Pravcická brána" (Pravcická gate) are formed by towers dispersed in rocky ridges north of road Hrensko-Mezní Louka (bus stations Hrensko-Soutesky, Hrensko-Pravcická brána and Mezní Louka). Also there are towers from soft sandstone, which are prohibited in wet. Some of them reach considerable heights and their attraction is multiplied by unique natural scenery. Extensive visiting of gorges by tourists and hikers has negative impact on natural environment. We remind you of duty to observe visiting order of National park Czech Switzerland (and also Protected area Elbe´s sandstones). In this area there is educational path that provides deeper informations about natural interests. Camping is possible in camp by hotel Mezní Louka. Out of season is difficult access to Gorges, because they are closed (passage boat traffic). Sources of spring water are in the lower part of Suchá Kamenice valley.

 

VYSOKÁ LÍPA

Maps with location of climbing-rocks: Vysoká Lípa - north, Vysoká Lípa - south, surroundings of Malá Pravcická brána - detail

Administrator of zone: David Nehasil, Weberova 1530/6, Decín 6, 405 02, tel.: 0412/539160

Towers in surroundings of Vysoká Lípa are situated in the neighbourhood of romantic castle Saunstejn (also Robbers´s castle - Loupežnický hrad) and in forsaken dingles north-west of wood-road that leads from Vysoká Lípa to former village Zadní Jetrichovice (= Czech road), futher in deep canyon of river Kamenice in surroundings of former Dolský mlýn (Ground mill or in german Grundmühle). This zone links up in the west to zone Hrensko, in the south to zone Srbská Kamenice and in the east to zone Jetrichovice and Tokán. The highest walls are in the group of Ferdinand´s towers by Dolský mlýn. The most attractive but also the most difficult climbs are on Saská vež (Saxon tower), Lužická vež (Lusatia tower) and Srbská vež (Serbian tower). The most visiting is without doubt Saunstejn. Towers are from soft sandstone and don´t reach large heights. The highest walls are in group of Ferdinand´s towers by Doský mlýn. Climbing is prohibited when the rocks are wet.

Starting point is Vysoká Lípa (bus station), to Dolský mlýn is preferable access from village Kamenická Strán (by car to hunters lodge, to Kamenická Strán by digression from road Ružová-Srbská Kamenice in Ružová by water tank) or from Jetrichovice, as the case may be from Srbská Kamenice. This zone is part of national park Czech Switzerland and also protected area Elbe´s sandstones. In gorge of river Kamenice north-west from Dolský mlýn (Ferdinand´s gorge or Srbskokamenická gorge) is in the spring and summer restricted climbing, because of nesting period of hardly protected birds. In the rocks there are not sources of spring water. Telephone is accessible in ambient villages.

 

SRBSKÁ KAMENICE and VŠEMILY

Maps with location of climbing-rocks: Srbská Kamenice and Všemily, Vresová dolina by Bynovec, Nová Oleška

Administrator of zone: Pavel Henke, Srbská Kamenice 152, 407 15, district Decín, tel. 0412/ 555 095

Small rocky zone at edge of Czech Switzerland includes towers and massives next door to village Srbská kamenice and Všemily to the south of village Jetrichovice. Towers and massives are in valleys to the east from road, 3 towers stands on the right side of river Kamenice by entry to the Ferdinand´s gorge. Among the most attractive but also the most difficult climbs belongs Trojhran (Triangle), Sokolská vež and Mesicní kámen (Moon stone), where the easiest climbing-paths achieve VI. to VII. grade of difficulty.

Most of towers was climbed till after 1959. Towers (only average heights) are from soft sandstone, so the climbing is prohibited when the rocks are wet. Whole zone is quested out very little though it offers pretty climbs in romantic environment. The starting point is Srbská Kamenice (bus station before Všemily) and Všemily (bus station) on the bus-track Decín-Jetrichovice. It´s neccesary to observe visiting order of protected area Elbe´s sandstones. You can camp by the bathing place about 1,5 km from Všemily upstream of river Chribská Kamenice. Telephone is accessible in Srbská Kamenice and Všemily. Spring water is in Srbská Kamenice and Všemily, and also in the spring at edge of wood by the way to Výrocní vež (Anniversary tower).

 

JETRICHOVICE

Maps with location of climbing-rocks: Jetrichovice, Studený

Administrator of zone: Karel Hofmann, Husova 2629, Varnsdorf 5, 407 47

The climbing destination are mostly situated north of village Jetrichovice in valleys, brows and cliffs of Jetrichovické skály (Jetrichovické rocks). Into this zone we embody also single towers and groups of rocks in Pavlina valley (valley of Chribská Kamenice south-west from Jetrichovice) and above village Studený. It borders in the north with zone Tokán, in the west with zone Vysoká Lípa and in the south-west with zone Srbská Kamenice.

Majority of towers reaches only average heights. Among the most attractive towers for climbers belongs Kocicí kostel (Cat´s church), Malé a Velké Žluté cimburí (Little and Big Yellow battlement), Hrabenka (Countess), Hladká věž (Smooth tower), Kužel Vilemíniny steny (Cone of Vilemína´s wall) and many others. Sandstone is soft and therefore the climbing is prohibited when the rocks are wet. Division of sandstone allows large-scale choice of climbing-ways. Climbing is also attractive thanks to unique natural sceneries. Besides of usual wood game (animals) we can see also black game, mufflons and izards. Zone is part of protected area Elbe´s sandstones and partly part of national park Czech Switzerland. The starting-point is village Jetrichovice (bus station Jetrichovice-inn Praha). To some towers is preferable access from Vysoká Lípa (from Czech road - bus station Vysoká Lípa-lower inn), further from Rynartice (bus station), from bathing place (bus station Jetrichovice-koupaliste) and from Studený (bus station). By bathing place is camp there, also for cars. Telephone is in surroundings villages. In the rocks there are not spring water. In sanatorium for children at edge of Jetrichovice you can seek first aid.

 

TOKÁN

Maps with location of climbing-rocks: Tokán, Bouldrová zahrádka

Administrator of zone: Sláva Hrkal senior, Chribská 217, district Decín

Whole zone is situated north of Jetrichovické skály (Jetrichovické rocks), in the north-west is ended up by state border, that is formed by river Krinice, in the west this zone links up to Vysoká Lípa and Czech road (leading from Vysoká Lípa to former village by state border Zadní Jetrichovice - Hinder Jetrichovice), and in the north it borders with zone Kyjovské udolí (Kyjov´s valley). Towers are dispersed in the rocky ridges and dingles of far-reaching wood complex of east edge of Czech Switzerland. This zone creates large rocky labyrinth with difficult orientation, where is usual to look for single towers. Not high towers are from soft sandstone (prohibition of climbing in wet).

Real starting-point is former hunting-manor Na Tokáni. You can get there on foot by branching line from road Dolní Chribská - Doubice or by tourists marked paths from Jetrichovice (bus station) or Rynartice (bus station). Into the west part of this zone is favourable access from Czech road (bus station Vysoká Lípa-lower inn), into the north part is possible access from Doubice along Doubická cesta (Doubická road). Zone is part of protected area Elbe´s sandstones and national park Czech Switzerland. Camping isn´t allowed. Because of occurrence of hardly protected animals the climbing is restricted in spring and summer in area about 1 km along river Krinice. Telephone is accessible in surrounding villages, in season also in Na Tokáni.

 

KYJOVSKÉ ÚDOLÍ (KYJOV´S VALLEY)

Rock-towers of the northest region of Czech-Saxon Switzerland are disbanded in romantic dingles and ridges of far-reaching complex, its backbone is representing by Kyjov valley with river Krinice. In the south this zone borders with zone Tokán, in the east and north this zone is circumscribed by road between Kyjov (bus station), Vlcí hora (Wolfish hill) (bus station), Brtníky (bus and train station) and Kopec. These villages and municipalities are also starting-points into this zone. State border leading along Bílý potok (White brook) and then along Krinice encloses this zone in the west.

Beyond soft sandstone that constitutes most of towers (prohibition of climbing in wet) we find in the north-east also rock from very hard sandstone (Martin´s tower, Plactivé kameny - Tearful stones). Towers don´t reach great heights. This zone is also part of protected area Elbe´s sandstones and national park Czech Switzerland. In final part of Kyjov´s valley and in valley of White brook is restricted climbing in spring and summer, because of nesting of hardly protected birds. Camping isn´t allowed. Telephone is in surrounding villages, in season also in former hunting-manor Sternberk.

VOCABULARY OF SANDSTONE ROCK-CLIMBING TERMS

INFORMATIONS ABOUT ROCK-CLIMBING IN CZECH SWITZERLAND

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