ROCK-CLIMBING IN CZECH SWITZERLAND

Beginnings of rockclimbing in surroundings of Jetrichovice (source: Ceská silnice, author: Karel Stein)

Discovering of beauties around Jetrichovice started in the second half of the 19th century. Romantic spirit of that time luxuriated in this picturesque and cragged landscape and making available of look-outs became vogue among aristocratic quarters. Ferdinand Náhlík in his vade-mecum from 1864 told: "The most beautiful sceneries of Czech (Bohemian) Switzerland would be unattended and inaccessible and for foreigner who doesn´t know the roads and paths would be very difficult to get out of forestry and rocky labyrinths but for great generosity His Grace Prince Ferdinand Kinský (nature lover), who let everywhere build up by extensive costs bridges, carved stairs, quard-rails and roads - by this work in all sorts of places craftsmen gave their lifes in stake". Thus were built up by the way top-cabins on Vilemínina stena (Vilemína´s wall - today only rests of it), Rudolfův kámen (Rudolf´´s stone) and in 1856 on Mariina skála (Maria´s rock) - both still stay. The names are derived from baptismal names of members of Kinský family. For example Rudolf´s stone was called before as Vysoký kámen (High stone, or in german Hoher Stein) and was renamed after visit of prince Rudolf Kinský in 1824.

In last quarter of the 19th century in Jetrichovice rocks strongly approved activity of Mountain association for Bohemian Switzerland (in german Gebirgsverein für die Böhmische Schweiz). This association was constituted in 1878 in Decín as one of the first associations of that kind in Bohemia. As chairman was elected tireless organizer - director of Civic school in Decín - Robert Manzer (1839-1913). Step by step grew new sections of this association - the Jetrichovice´s one fixed itself in 1879. For the Manzer´s tribut they founded in 1904 to the east of Jetrichovice new tourists path and gave name to it after him. It leads over socalled "Manzer´s height" (Manzerova výšina) and below it we can find climbing tower, that still carry his name.

During years of its activity association performed incredible amount of work for accessing local rocks and fruitage of this work we use until today. In the rocky wall in serpentine road under Pohovka (Kanape, in english Couch) on the route Jetrichovice - fork Pod pohovkou - Rudolfův kámen we can find board from white marble, that commemorated credits of chairman of Jetrichovice´s section of Mountain association - Rudolf Jirí Kessler (+ 2.2.1884). This princely head forester kept to build up serpentine road in hard terraine and also by another way he advocated accessing of rocky area. For his credits he was designated honorary citizen of Jetrichovice. In Jetrichovice mountain association ran hostel and provided guiding services.

While foreign travel in Jetrichovice´s walls indefinitely domesticated, rock-climbing started to do only first diffident shor steps. Sandstone climbing with its ethic rules, that in substance stands until today, originated in the sixties of the 19th century in neighbouring Saxony. First climbs on territory of out republic took place even in 1888 close to Pravcická brána (Pravcická gate). First rock-climbers at first chose naturally only the most attractive towers, later they started to rockclimb also in other zones and lower rocks too. As first towers by Jetrichovice were climbed by Otta Jungling in 1909 Borůvcí kámen (Bilberry stone) and Kamzicí kužel (Chamois cone). In 1911 followed Prední vež (Front tower), Sagusova hlava (Sagus head), Kuželka (Skittle) and Poštolcí kužel (Kestrel´s cone). WW1 meant big loses also in rows of rockclimbers. Past WW1 climbers started to climb in zone Na Tokáni and also in Jetrichovice increased amount of first-climbs there. Very long time many climbers aspired after climbing of Kocicí kostel (Cat´s church), that was climbed by R.Mayer and O.Rulke in the year 1921. Among best-known first-climbers belonged Alfred Herrmann too. In the first climbing-guide of R.Fehrmann from the year 1923 was mentioned climbs to Ferdinandova vež (Ferdinand´s tower), Kocicí kostel (Cat´s church), Vež Roberta Manzera (Tower of Robert Manzer), Poštolcí kužel (Kestrel´s cone), Koník (Grass-hopper), Prední vež (Front tower), Vilemínin kužel (Vilemína´s cone) and some other solitary towers in wide surroundings. Past WW2 and after displacing of Germans Czech climbers undertook climbing initiative. At first they re-climbed climbing ways of foregoers, later they climb on new ways and new towers. In the fifties came into existence in Varnsdorf´s factory Velveta from the group of gymnasts rock-climbing division, that step by step branched out and its members undertook journeys not only into Jetrichovice´s rocks. Also in Chribská there was constituted group of good climbers whose activity culminated in the years 1962-1964. Also members of climbing divisions from Decín, Rumburk, Liberec, Ústí nad Labem rode there.

From above mentioned history of discovering of our rocks is actually only casual and fragmentary dighest of facts. Magic of Jetrichovice´s walls subdued generations of hikers, tourists, rockclimbers and tramps and if they were open to magic of our landscape they were influenced by it for whole life.

RULES of sporting rock-climbing on sandstones in Bohemia

 

Guide for rock-climbers

(partly adopted from "Pískovcové skály v Cechách, díl II., Severní Cechy, autor: Vladimír Slouka a kolektiv, 1980" - and partly from actual Rules of sporting rock-climbing on sandstones in Bohemia)

Integral sandstone clasification (JPK)

Objective classification of all climbing ways isn´t possible, because every way has its specific particularities. Evaluation is subjective, but it has to arise from this points of view: 1. the way we rate after the most difficult part of way and 2. we take a regard to count of hard sections of way and their length. It is allowed to decrease or increase by 1 grade in this occasions: 1. short way with one hard place by 1 grade below because tiredness from climbing don´t come into account, 2. long and physicaly hard way by 1 grade above because by tiredness from climbing difficulty escalates. Aim of JPK is to unify clasification in particular climbing zones.

Difficulty of the climbing ways

In czech

In english

Characteristic

I. velmi snadné

Very easy

Hands used only to maintenance of balance.

II. snadné

Efortless

Sufficient amount of foot steps and catches, in either of parts of way it is possible to break the climbing.

III. lehké

Easy

Ways with good foot steps and catches, difficult to maintain balance.

IV. mírne težké

Slightly hard

Parts with less good foot steps and catches, climbing through chinks and off-steps.

V. dosti težké

Fair hard

Climbing of overhanging sections of way in few articulated terrain, climbing on friction, simply handy and wide chinks.

VI. težké

Hard

Climbing of longer overhanging sections on small foot-steps and catches, longer sections of climbing of friction, difficult wall and chink climbing.

VIIa. velmi težké

Very hard

Further protraction of difficult parts of the way, neccesary perfect physical and psychical condition, expirience, knowledge and training.

VIIb. neobycejne težké

Eminently hard

Gradation of precedent requirements.

VIIc. Krajne težké

Extra hard

Long and most difficult sections near the limits of possibility.

VIII. a výše bez slovní charakteristiky

Without verbal characteristic

Climbable only for climbers with intensive tonic and climbing training.

Difficulty of jumps

1. lehký

Easy

Short jump (generally under 2 m) at same level or with little altitude difference.

2. stredne težký

Medium-hard

Longer jump (above 2 m) with lesser altitude difference with good take-off and good landing.

3. težký

Hard

Risky jump (above 2 m) with bad take-off or landing or with big altitude difference.

4. krajne težký

Extra hard

Gradation of precedent conditions, acrobatic effort.

5. extrémne težký

Extremely hard

Hazardous effort.

 Hardship of jump is indicated before difficulty of climbing way - for example 2/VI.

Sandstone´s climbers terminology:

Vež

Tower

Free-standing climbing rocky object with minimal lenght of climbing way (join of top with place of start) - 5 m and difficulty I.grade.

Masív

Massive

Not-climbing top.

Okrajová skála

Peripheral rock

Rock accessible from terraine without climbing (rock is conjoined with terrain), it used to be very rarely climbing object.

Predskalí

Pre-rock

Rocks under tower or around tower accessible by easy climbing or by foot - it used to be very often point of start.

Roh

Outside corner

Corner of rock (in sense of house´s corner) - it doesn´t have character of edge.

Kout 

Inside corner

Corner formed by two walls of rocks (in sense of indoor corner).

Hrana

Edge

Line, where the two rocky surfaces contact themselves.

Plotna

Slab

Flat and seemingly featureless, not quite vertical piece of rock.

Lávka

Large laterraly extended ledge

Horizontal formation about as wide so it enable to sit down.

Rímsa

Ledge

Same formation wide 5-20 cm.

Lišta

Small ledge

Same formation wide till 5 cm.

Plošina

Platform

Area allowing relatively comfortable and secure stance - generally standpoint.

Balkón

Balcony, large ledge

Area in tower-side allowing relatively comfortable and secure stance of several climbers.

Kazatelna

Pulpit

Balcony salient from the wall.

Spára, spárka, trhlina

Crack, fist crack, hand crack, finger crack

Breach in the rock allowing advance, into the crack goes arm, into the hand and finger crack only palm or fingers.

Komín

Chimney

Vertical opening of rocks various width, as a rule at least for the body.

Souteska

Defile

Wider opening of rocks not climbable by chimney technique.

Okno

Window

It allows slip through tower, hole (díra) doesn´t allow slip through.

Hodiny, hodinky

Sand-hourglass, tunnel

Small post like sand-glasses - they connected ceiling with bottom surface of rocky hollow (neroxity).

Žlab, žlábek, vhloubení

Gutter, groove, hollow

Bigger of smaller incision into the rock with round edges and bottom.

Traverz

Traverse

Approach of climber sideward.

Sokolík

Lieback

A climbing technique done by pulling in with your arms and pushing out from the rock wall with your feet.

Stavení

Standing

Elongation of climber´s height by standing on his shoulders by co-climber for achievement of articulated surface above not climbable part of way. Co-operation of two climbers = standing, 3 = "double standing" 4 = "triple standing".

 

CZECH

TO

ENGLISH

VOCABULARY

 

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of sandstone climbing terminology

Climbing areas in surroundings of Jetrichovice

(adapted from book: Pískovcové skály v Cechách - horolezecký průvodce, Severní Cechy II., V. Slouka a kol., 1980

and zones: Jetrichovice, Srbská Kamenice and Všemily, Vysoká Lípa and Tokán complemented by: Lezecký průvodce - Jetrichovicko, HK Varnsdorf, 1997

and zone Údolí Labe completed by: Horolezecký průvodce - Labské údolí a Belá, Pavel Cerný, Hudy sport, 2001)

 

ÚDOLÍ LABE (ELBE´S VALLEY)

Administrator of zone: Jindrich Švihnos, U studánky 61, 407 22, Benešov n. Pl., tel: 0412/586470

Large rocky zone Elbe´s valley covers climbing-towers on both sides of river Elbe (Labe) between Decín and state border with Germany. Left bank of river Elbe - in this part there are 52 towers (among them several half-massives with high valley´s walls). The highest and fairest towers are in surrounding of Dolní Zleb there, other towers aren´t considerable enough - they are sinked in the wood and therefore very often wet. Access to towers is from railway-stations of CD (Czech railways) "Prostrední Zleb", "Certova voda" and "Dolní Zleb" on the track Decín-Dolní Zleb. To the towers nr. 51 and 52 is access from town quarter "Jaluvcí" - transport from Decín´s main station by town-bus. Possibility to camp by tower nr. 34 - by pond 250 m from this tower. In the rocks there is sufficiency of sources of spring water.

Right bank of river Elbe - much more valuable and much sought-after for climbers, it is treated the most significant zone of protected area "Elbe´s sandstones". Towers are characterized by high valley´s walls (as many as 80 m) with wide offer of long and worthy climbing ways. Sandstone is very consistent. Whole zone is part of protected area "Elbe´s sandstones". Access to towers is either from Elbe from bus-stations Podskalí, Dolní Zleb-ferry and Hrensko on the bus-track Decín-Hrensko-Vysoká Lípa or from above from bus-stations Bynovec and Labská Strán on the bus-track Decín-Labská Strán. Possibility to camp and bivouac in the neigbourhood (tower nr. 42). Sources of spring water are only in the middle part of valley.

In this enumeration of rocks aren´t named climbing towers on the left bank of Elbe.

 

HRENSKO

An important rock-climbing area Hrensko, which is situated in the heart of Czech-Saxon Switzerland, we divided into two extensive groups. Group "Soutesky" (Gorges) are made up of towers, which are disbanded in shoulders of breath-taking canyon of river Kamenice. Towers are from soft, partly breaking sandstone, (prohibition of climbing when the sandstone is wet) and they don´t attain large heights.This group is accessible from the road Hrensko-Mezní Louka and digression to Mezná (bus-stations Hrensko-Soutesky, Mezní Louka, Mezná), and from the road Ružová-Janov (bus station Janov-Hájenky).

Group of rocks "Pravcická brána" (Pravcická gate) are formed by towers dispersed in rocky ridges north of road Hrensko-Mezní Louka (bus stations Hrensko-Soutesky, Hrensko-Pravcická brána and Mezní Louka). Also there are towers from soft sandstone, which are prohibited in wet. Some of them reach considerable heights and their attraction is multiplied by unique natural scenery. Extensive visiting of gorges by tourists and hikers has negative impact on natural environment. We remind you of duty to observe visiting order of National park Czech Switzerland (and also Protected area Elbe´s sandstones). In this area there is educational path that provides deeper informations about natural interests. Camping is possible in camp by hotel Mezní Louka. Out of season is difficult access to Gorges, because they are closed (passage boat traffic). Sources of spring water are in the lower part of Suchá Kamenice valley.

 

VYSOKÁ LÍPA

Maps with location of climbing-rocks: Vysoká Lípa - north, Vysoká Lípa - south, surroundings of Malá Pravcická brána - detail

Administrator of zone: David Nehasil, Weberova 1530/6, Decín 6, 405 02, tel.: 0412/539160

Towers in surroundings of Vysoká Lípa are situated in the neighbourhood of romantic castle Saunstejn (also Robbers´s castle - Loupežnický hrad) and in forsaken dingles north-west of wood-road that leads from Vysoká Lípa to former village Zadní Jetrichovice (= Czech road), futher in deep canyon of river Kamenice in surroundings of former Dolský mlýn (Ground mill or in german Grundmühle). This zone links up in the west to zone Hrensko, in the south to zone Srbská Kamenice and in the east to zone Jetrichovice and Tokán. The highest walls are in the group of Ferdinand´s towers by Dolský mlýn. The most attractive but also the most difficult climbs are on Saská vež (Saxon tower), Lužická vež (Lusatia tower) and Srbská vež (Serbian tower). The most visiting is without doubt Saunstejn. Towers are from soft sandstone and don´t reach large heights. The highest walls are in group of Ferdinand´s towers by Doský mlýn. Climbing is prohibited when the rocks are wet.

Starting point is Vysoká Lípa (bus station), to Dolský mlýn is preferable access from village Kamenická Strán (by car to hunters lodge, to Kamenická Strán by digression from road Ružová-Srbská Kamenice in Ružová by water tank) or from Jetrichovice, as the case may be from Srbská Kamenice. This zone is part of national park Czech Switzerland and also protected area Elbe´s sandstones. In gorge of river Kamenice north-west from Dolský mlýn (Ferdinand´s gorge or Srbskokamenická gorge) is in the spring and summer restricted climbing, because of nesting period of hardly protected birds. In the rocks there are not sources of spring water. Telephone is accessible in ambient villages.

 

SRBSKÁ KAMENICE and VŠEMILY

Maps with location of climbing-rocks: Srbská Kamenice and Všemily, Vresová dolina by Bynovec, Nová Oleška

Administrator of zone: Pavel Henke, Srbská Kamenice 152, 407 15, district Decín

Small rocky zone at edge of Czech Switzerland includes towers and massives next door to village Srbská kamenice and Všemily to the south of village Jetrichovice. Towers and massives are in valleys to the east from road, 3 towers stands on the right side of river Kamenice by entry to the Ferdinand´s gorge. Among the most attractive but also the most difficult climbs belongs Trojhran (Triangle), Sokolská vež and Mesicní kámen (Moon stone), where the easiest climbing-paths achieve VI. to VII. grade of difficulty.

Most of towers was climbed till after 1959. Towers (only average heights) are from soft sandstone, so the climbing is prohibited when the rocks are wet. Whole zone is quested out very little though it offers pretty climbs in romantic environment. The starting point is Srbská Kamenice (bus station before Všemily) and Všemily (bus station) on the bus-track Decín-Jetrichovice. It´s neccesary to observe visiting order of protected area Elbe´s sandstones. You can camp by the bathing place about 1,5 km from Všemily upstream of river Chribská Kamenice. Telephone is accessible in Srbská Kamenice and Všemily. Spring water is in Srbská Kamenice and Všemily, and also in the spring at edge of wood by the way to Výrocní vež (Anniversary tower).

 

JETRICHOVICE

Maps with location of climbing-rocks: Jetrichovice, Studený

Administrator of zone: Karel Hofmann, Husova 269, Varnsdorf 5, 407 47

The climbing destination are mostly situated north of village Jetrichovice in valleys, brows and cliffs of Jetrichovické skály (Jetrichovické rocks). Into this zone we embody also single towers and groups of rocks in Pavlina valley (valley of Chribská Kamenice south-west from Jetrichovice) and above village Studený. It borders in the north with zone Tokán, in the west with zone Vysoká Lípa and in the south-west with zone Srbská Kamenice.

Majority of towers reaches only average heights. Among the most attractive towers for climbers belongs Kocicí kostel (Cat´s church), Malé a Velké Žluté cimburí (Little and Big Yellow battlement), Hrabenka (Countess), Hladká vež (Smooth tower), Kužel Vilemíniny steny (Cone of Vilemína´s wall) and many others. Sandstone is soft and therefore the climbing is prohibited when the rocks are wet. Division of sandstone allows large-scale choice of climbing-ways. Climbing is also attractive thanks to unique natural sceneries. Besides of usual wood game (animals) we can see also black game, mufflons and izards. Zone is part of protected area Elbe´s sandstones and partly part of national park Czech Switzerland. The starting-point is village Jetrichovice (bus station Jetrichovice-inn Praha). To some towers is preferable access from Vysoká Lípa (from Czech road - bus station Vysoká Lípa-lower inn), further from Rynartice (bus station), from bathing place (bus station Jetrichovice-koupaliste) and from Studený (bus station). By bathing place is camp there, also for cars. Telephone is in surroundings villages. In the rocks there are not spring water. In sanatorium for children at edge of Jetrichovice you can seek first aid.

 

TOKÁN

Maps with location of climbing-rocks: Tokán, Bouldrová zahrádka

Administrator of zone: Sláva Hrkal senior, Chribská 217, district Decín

Whole zone is situated north of Jetrichovické skály (Jetrichovické rocks), in the north-west is ended up by state border, that is formed by river Krinice, in the west this zone links up to Vysoká Lípa and Czech road (leading from Vysoká Lípa to former village by state border Zadní Jetrichovice - Hinder Jetrichovice), and in the north it borders with zone Kyjovské udolí (Kyjov´s valley). Towers are dispersed in the rocky ridges and dingles of far-reaching wood complex of east edge of Czech Switzerland. This zone creates large rocky labyrinth with difficult orientation, where is usual to look for single towers. Not high towers are from soft sandstone (prohibition of climbing in wet).

Real starting-point is former hunting-manor Na Tokáni. You can get there on foot by branching line from road Dolní Chribská - Doubice or by tourists marked paths from Jetrichovice (bus station) or Rynartice (bus station). Into the west part of this zone is favourable access from Czech road (bus station Vysoká Lípa-lower inn), into the north part is possible access from Doubice along Doubická cesta (Doubická road). Zone is part of protected area Elbe´s sandstones and national park Czech Switzerland. Camping isn´t allowed. Because of occurrence of hardly protected animals the climbing is restricted in spring and summer in area about 1 km along river Krinice. Telephone is accessible in surrounding villages, in season also in Na Tokáni.

 

KYJOVSKÉ ÚDOLÍ (KYJOV´S VALLEY)

Rock-towers of the northest region of Czech-Saxon Switzerland are disbanded in romantic dingles and ridges of far-reaching complex, its backbone is representing by Kyjov valley with river Krinice. In the south this zone borders with zone Tokán, in the east and north this zone is circumscribed by road between Kyjov (bus station), Vlcí hora (Wolfish hill) (bus station), Brtníky (bus and train station) and Kopec. These villages and municipalities are also starting-points into this zone. State border leading along Bílý potok (White brook) and then along Krinice encloses this zone in the west.

Beyond soft sandstone that constitutes most of towers (prohibition of climbing in wet) we find in the north-east also rock from very hard sandstone (Martin´s tower, Plactivé kameny - Tearful stones). Towers don´t reach great heights. This zone is also part of protected area Elbe´s sandstones and national park Czech Switzerland. In final part of Kyjov´s valley and in valley of White brook is restricted climbing in spring and summer, because of nesting of hardly protected birds. Camping isn´t allowed. Telephone is in surrounding villages, in season also in former hunting-manor Sternberk.

 

 PROTECTION OF NATURE AND ROCK-CLIMBING

(authentic copy to all climbers from chairman of CHS)

In recent years number of complaints from bodies of nature protection against Czech rock-climbing assocciation has increased. Complaints mostly apply to dissappointment of negotiated rules of behavior in protected areas. They threaten by prohibition of climbing in some climbing zones. In some places this threat came to pass already ! So I would like to throw light upon the entire problem.

Majority of climbing localities is situated in protected areas. Their categories are following:

  • Protected regional area (chránená krajinná oblast - CHKO),
  • National natural reservation (národní prírodní rezervace - NPR),
  • Natural reservation (prírodní rezervace - PR),
  • National natural relic (národní prírodní památka - NPP),
  • Natural relic (prírodní památka - PP).
  • Every motion in protected areas is subordinate to act of CNR nr. 114/1992 collection of acts - about protection of nature and landscape. Climbing is prohibited direct from the act in the areas with the status "national" = NP, NPR, NPP. The exception from prohibition can be allowed by Department of environment of Czech republic (Ministerstvo životního prostredí - MŽP CR). In the national parks exception consists on the fact in which zone of national park are the rocks situated (in 3rd zone the climbing is beyond certain conditions usually allowed - in national park Czech Switzerland too). In NPR and NPP the MŽP CR usually meets us - naturally in the case of observance of stated fundamentals (there belong also Pravcická gate). In other categories of protected areas the climbing isn´t prohibited direct from the act but rules for motion mods competent authorities of nature protection (offices of environment, administration of CHKOs, municipal authorities and Czech inspection of environment).

    In practice it looks like so that CHS has with this authorities scriptual agreement, in which are stated conditions of climbing exercise. In the case of violating of these conditions (and this is very important !) the competent authority are in postion to limit or disallow the motion in said locality. Exceptions and permissions stand only for certain period. Then the situation is evaluated and follows new request and eventual elongation or modification of permission. In the worst case follows prohibition. My personal expirience from negotiations: times changed and "Nature protection" seeks to meet us and therefore in most of zones the climbing is allowed or only temporaly limited (for example for reasons of bird nesting, reproduction of protected flowers, moisture of sandstone etc.). It is necessary to awake to fact, that these exceptions from the act and permissions to climbing have only registrated climbers of CHS, because CHS for its members applied for permissions by pertinent authorities and pursuant to administrative proceeding CHS obtained these permissions and exceptions for its members. Every man could apply for exception but for each zone he has to apply extra and in addition with unwarranted effect.

    Hereat I woul like to chalk out advantages of organized climbers in CHS. So don´t be ashamed to set your card of CHS to authority of nature protection. Carry it with yourself ! Against non-organized climbers you could have right of free motion on verticals. Ever and anew we exhort all climbers to consistent observance of stated rules of motion in protected areas. Some climbers didn´t realized or they refuse to realized after-effects of their irresponsible behaviour. Please for your own sake exhort and warn this climbers to adequate behaviour. It is the question of being or nonentity all of us ! Said by words of classic: "My freedom begins there where your ends". Situation is at most critical ! Complaints of nature protection breed like rabbits. As catastrophic precedent I can describe outcome of my last discussion at Administration of CHKO Moravský Kras: Climbing on Krkavcí skála could be prohibited ! Cause ? Disappointment of temporal restriction of climbing, stated there because of nesting of protected birds. Not only constantly disturbance of nesting birds, but some "sportsman" even blow up nest with sucklings of rare and protected Great raven !

    Petr Hejtmánek, chairman of Comission for nature protection of Czech rock-climbing association (CHS - Ceský horolezecký svaz)

    ROCKCLIMBING on territory of National park CZECH SWITZERLAND

    On 17th Jule 2001 entered into force visiting order of National park Czech Switzerland, that regulates also conditions of rockclimbing on sandstone rocks situated on territory of national park (rules for rockclimbing):

    1. To practice rockclimbing is possible only on places and periods dedicated by Administration of national park (vide below). To practice rockclimbing activity are allowed only members of Ceský horolezecký svaz (CHS) (Czech rockclimbing union), further of member´s organizations of U.I.A.A. (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinism) and adepts of rockclimbing sport (expectants) if they take part in training under leadership of rockclimbing instructor. One instructor can educate maximum 7 expectants at a time.
    2. Rockclimbers and instructors are obliged to document on demand of supervisory members with their union card of CHS, U.I.A.A. or instructor of rockclimbing.
    3. Rockclimbers are obliged to use marked out access paths for access to rockclimbing objects. Marks are explicit in appendix nr.1 of visiting order (vide below).
    4. Rockclimbing is practiced at one's own risk.
    5. It is only possible to practice rockclimbing if you abide with binding "RULES of sporting rock-climbing on sandstones in Bohemia" released by CHS in 1.3.1988 and valid in upgraded version from 1.7.1998.
    6. Creation of new first-climbs is allowed only pursuant to precedent permission from Administration of National park Czech Switzerland.
    7. Some rockclimbing objects mentiond in appendix nr. 2 of visiting order (vide below) can be for reasons of nature-protection temporarily closed by Administration of national park (in accordance with § 64 act nr.114/1992). These objects will be properly marked by Administration of national park.
    8. Rock-climbers are obliged without delay to notify of found of nesting of birds on rockclimbing objects in national park to Administration of national park.

    Symbols for marking acsess ways to rocks serving only for rockclimbers (other people are dissalowed):

    Prohibited way

    Way to right/to left

    (black cross in the middle of white disc, diameter of disc 80 mm without edge; proportions of cross: length 60 mm, width of line 10 mm)

    (black triangle in the middle of white disc, diameter of disc 80 mm without edge; proportions of triangle: vertical side 40 mm, lengthwise side 59 mm)

    Rocks dedicated by authority of national park Czech Switzerland for rockclimbing activity (NP covers climbing areas: Hrensko, Vysoká Lípa, Jetrichovice, Tokán, Kyjovské údolí):

    a) Year round are dedicated following towers and massives (peripheral rocks):

    Towers in the I. zone of national park:

    Krížová vež, Malý Pravcický kužel, Stará Václavská stena, Václavská vež, Velký Pravcický kužel.

    Massives in II. zone of national park:

    Aladinova stenka, Hacienda, Mravencí stena, Residence, Šaunštejn.

    Towers in the II. zone of national park:

    Cmelák, Detská vež, Divoká vež, Dubový kámen, Golem, Hezoun, Hladká vež, Hrabenka, Kámen mudrců, Klášterní jehla, Kostelík, Kostelní vež, Lampa, Malé Žluté cimburí, Malý plactivý kámen, Myslivecká vež, Okurka, Opuštená vež, Osecká vež, Poštolcí kužel, Prófa, Prední vež, Punťa, Sagusova hlava, Rudolfova skrín, Rudolfův kámen, Slimák, Tetreví vyhlídka, Velikonocní vež, Velké Žluté cimburí, Velký plactivý kámen, Vež Pavly, Vež Petra Rady, Vež Roberta Manzera, Voldríšek, Zvíre.

    b) In period since 1.7. to 28.2. are dedicated for rockclimbing also following towers and massives (peripheral rocks) with climbing-ways completed before 1.1.2000:

    Massives in I. zone of national park:

    Cínská zeď, Jeskyne ceských bratrí, Pravcická stena.

    Towers in the I. zone of national park:

    Alencino zrcadlo, Ama Dablam, Babicka, Bachyne, Barbucha, Bílinský kámen, Blesková jehla, Blok v jelením, Brezová vežicka, Bohatý mlynár, Bratrský oltár, Bratrská vež, Citadela, Claryho klobouk, Claryho vež, Cerná paní, Cerný kužel, Certovo kvítko, Cesneková jehla, Cilimník, Ctyrce, Davidův kámen, Dešťový kámen, Deti, Dlouhá stena, Dolní hrádek, Dolská jehla, Drážďanský kužel, Drahokam, Druhá Ferdinandova vež, Hlava, Hlavicka, Homole, Horská hlava, Horská Zvonicka, Hranicní kámen (Soutesky), Hrot Stríbrné steny, Husitská vež, Jedový zub, Jehla Pravcického dolu, Jelení hlava, Jelení skok, Jizerská vež (Na Tokání), Klekánice, Kobylka, Krinický kostel, Krinický král, Konský zub, Koráb, Krkonošská vež, Kruché cimburí, Lemon, Letní kámen, Leydeho vež, Lovecká trubka, Májová vež, Malá vež Růžové zahrady, Malý tetrev, Matzseidelova stena, Matzseidelova vež, Mešec, Mesícní stena, Mrenka, Náhodná vež, Oddílová vež, Oltárík, Orlická vež, Pašerácká križovatka, Petrova skála, Pevnost, Pidižvík, Príšera Soutesky, Poradní skála, Pravcická jehla, Pravcický roh, Pstruh, Pytlácký kámen, Pytlák, Rodice, Rozpolcený roh, Rybár, Saská vež, Skalní rodina, Smolar, Smrtka, Snehová královna, Sokolí hrad, Soutesková jehla, Souteskový drak, Spálený hrad, Starosta, Stríbrná stena, Stríbrný masiv, Stríbrný pohled, Stríbrný roh, Stríbrnák, Strážce mostků, Strážce prístavu, Strážce Pryskyricného dolu, Strážce soutesek, Strážce Stríbrné steny, Strážce Vosího vrchu, Sýrový plátek, Šikmá vež, Špendlík, Tetreví výspa, Tri stoly, Topograf, Trojnožka, Velká vež Růžové zahrady, Velký tetrev, Vež Bílého potoka, Vež Dlouhého dolu, Vež Gabrieliny stezky, Vež Krídelní steny, Vež Mezního dolu, Vež Mostkového dolu, Vež Stríbrné steny, Vlasatice, Vodník, Východní Soutesková vež, Vysoký roh, Yetti, Západní Soutesková vež, Závojnatka, Zelená jehla, Žabák, Želva (Pravcická brána),Želva (Na Tokání).

    Massives in II. zone of national park:

    Buckingham, Cernoknežník, Certův kámen, Jarní vež, Mlýnské kolo, Oxford, Pavoucí hrad, Pavucinový hrad, Perinák, Pohovka, Rudolf, Verdon masiv, Waterloo, Zuzanka, Železná hlava.

    Towers in the II. zone of national park:

    Baba, Bašta Růžové zahrady, Big Stone, Bivoj, Bludný kámen, Bonifác, Borový kámen, Borůvcí kámen, Brontosaurus, Brtnická stena, Brtnická vež, Brtnický kámen, Brtnický kostel, Býk, Cipísek, Ceská jehla, Ctvrtá Ferdinandova vež, Ctyrlístek, Deska na Kobylce, Deštníková vež, Diblík, Dietrichův kámen, Detská skála, Divoká vež, Dvojitá vež (Kyjovské údolí), Dvojitá vež, Ferdinandova jehla, Ferdinandův roh, Francouzská vež, Giselina skála, Gorila, Hladová vež, Hradní jehla, Hranicní jehla, Hranicní kámen (Kyjovské údolí), Ježibaba, Jedlový roh, Jednorožec, Jehla v Mostkách, Jizerská vež, Jižní kríž, Kamzicí hrad, Kamzicí kužel, Kaplicka, Kastelánka, Kniha, Kresadlo, Krinická branka, Kominícek, Koník, Korunková jehla, Kost, Kráva, Kronika, Krtek, Kužel Vilemíniny steny, Kulišák, Kulíšek, Kuncova stena, Kyjovský král, Lahvicka, Lebka, Lesní duch, Lesní kaple, Listopadová vež, Loupežník (Vysoká Lípa), Loupežník (Kyjovské údolí), Lužická vež, Lucinka, Maják, Malý muž, Malý zbrojnoš, Mamut, Mamutí vež, Mariina vež, Kopretinová vež, Manželská vež, Martinova vež, Medvedice, Medvedí kámen, Medvedí zátiší, Meloun, Mesícní kámen, Mlynarík, Mlýnská vež, Mlýnský kámen, Nahodilá vež, Napoleon, Nemý svedek, Nová vež (Jetrichovice), Nová vež (Kyjovské údolí), Obrí hlava, Orlí vež, Ošemetná vež, Pachole (Kyjovské údolí), Pachole (Vysoká Lípa), Palecek, Paroh, Pašerák (Vysoká Lípa), Pašerák (Kyjovské údolí), Previslá vež, Postilion, Poslední Ferdinandova vež, Poustevna, První Ferdinandova vež, Pytel, Rákosník, Rohlík, Rosnicka, Rozporová vež, Rybárská bašta, Rysí vež, Rytír, Rádný obcan, Ríjnová jehla, Sakrácek, Schovaný kužel, Skoba, Skylla, Slon, Soutesková vyhlídka, Soví hnízdo, Spící ješter, Spolecná vež, Srbská vež, Strílna, Stolicka, Strážce Žabího rohu, Strážce Jehly, Strážce Klenotnice, Strážce Petidomí, Strážce Temného dolu, Strážce údolí, Strážní vež, Svícka, Šerchán, Šerif, Temný kámen, Tlustá paní, Tlustá teta, Tretí Ferdinandova vež, Tokánská jehla, Tokánská skrín, Tokánská vež, Trojce, Tulácek, Tunelová vež, Tuplák, Tykadlo, Varta na Kobylce, Velbloudí vež, Velká medvedice, Velký muž, Vež Pryskyricného dolu, Vež Tadeáše Haenkeho, Vlcí doupe, Vlk, Volská stena, Volská vež, Volský kužel, Vosí vež, Vůl, Vyhlídka, Zadní kužel, Zámecká vež, Západní špicka, Zátiší, Zelená vež, Zelenác, Zelený Jindrich, Zelený roh, Zpustlý kastelán, Zuzanka (Jetrichovice), Zvon, Železná vež,Železné veže.

    Rules relevant to rocks out of national park Czech Switzerland:

    (areas Labské údolí, Srbská Kamenice and Všemily, Jetrichovice - only towers in Pavlína´s valley and behind village Studený)

    CHKO LABSKÉ PÍSKOVCE (ELBE´s SANDSTONES) - CLIMBING RESTRICTIONS

    Labské údolí (Elbe´s valley)
    administrator of zone: Jindrich Švihnos, U studánky 61, 407 22 Benešov n. Pl., tel: 0412/ 586470
    climbing prohibition in the section Decínská vež - Severní
    Terasa (aside from tower Cestár) .

    Srbská Kamenice
    prohibition of first-climbs onto massives.

    Jetrichovice
    prohibition of first-climbs onto massives,
    prohibition of climbing on the towers Kuželka and Herkules.

    Climbing on water ice in the whole area of CHKO Elbe´s sandstone is prohibited.

    Comparative tables of climbing scales

     

    Tabel from rotpunkt 1991:

     

    Rock-climbing styles

    AF; all free, Alles frei:

    Climber uses to advance only natural formations and earth gravitation he outstrips only with his own strength. Securing points (clinches, hooks etc.) he can use only to rest - in further advance he continued from the point of break. Frequent breaking and rests derogate sporting value of climbing. German climber Kurt Albert (*1954) started in rocks of Franconian Jura since 1976 flag by red point on accession the climbing ways (sooner technical) which he free-climbed and hereat smoothly without rest. Other climbers adopted this flagging and so came into existence style "rotpunkt" (redpointed).

    RP; redpointed, rotpunkt:

    Style of free-climbing when the climbing way is outstriped with utilize of natural formations, securing points are used only to protection, rest is allowed only in easy standpoints (where climber can stand without holding with hands - so-called "no hand rest"). Ascent could be accomplished without downfall. After downfall or failed attempt climber may start new attempt from last "no hand rest" and strike rope from securing points. The Style RP imports only by climbing of the hardest climbing ways. In many areas, especially in south France (Verdon, Buoux), Australia and USA is considered as sole available and until the way isn´t climbed by RP it isn´t accepted as remounted. On the most difficult ways this method of climbing speeds well after long training with protection from above (hangdogging), or after changing from one protective circuit into another (rehearsing), or after previous setting of protection points (preprotecting) or at least after previous examination during descending on the rope (previewing, preinspecting). Most valuable is climbing by style RP with rope-protection from below at the first attempt - this is said style"on sight".

    OS; on sight:

    Generally it means climbing of the way on first sight = without previous practice with securing from below or above, without previous setting of protection points and without downfall. Except France this style is considered for the highest level of sporting value of climbing with protection.

    RK; rot kreis, red circle:

    Climber uses to advance only natural formations of terraine, securing points are used only to protection, each rope´s length may be climbed continualy not in parts. Downfalls and unsuccesfull attempts are allowed, by further attempts it isn´t necessary to strike rope from securing points above climber (as by RP). This style is less sporting valuable than RP. When the firs-climber fall repeatedly he is said to be "yo-yo" ("yoyoing").

    RC; red cross, rot kreuz:

    It is climbing with securing from above, designated too as "top-rope". It is desirable to climb the way without break and without hanging in the rope. In Czech republic this style is regarded sportingly irrelevant with only training´s function.

    PP; pink point, pink pointed:

    InittInitially style of free climbing accordandt with RP but with using of such attachment, which on the climbing way used first-climber, optionally with using only of old fixed protection points, without adding of own protection. This style bears on movement of nature protection "Think pink". Now PP means climbing in style RP but after previous appointing of climbing way by securing points and connection with "Think pink" evaporated.

    GP; green point:

    In basic form means any free climbing without using of magnesium = "with clean hands" whichever by RP or RK. In later phase means absolute elimination of any instruments, that inks the rock - so for example shoes with adhesive sole too. This style is accepted only by some climbers or groups. In connection with OS makes effort with highest sporting value.

    Elementary equipment

    Climbing shoes are special shoes, produced from hard but elastic material, which sole excels with its roughness and big adhesiveness to the rock. Climber usually buys shoes 1-2 sizes smaller in order to reach the most sensitive contact with rock. Price per climbing shoes ranges between 900 CZK and 3000 CZK.

    Climging rope serves to protection of climbers on rocks. They are produced from artificial strings and excels with its high bearing power and strength. Price 2500 - 5000 CZK.

    Sitting and breast bends are used for ensuring of safety by climbing, when the securing rope is bended to this instruments and connected us with our co-climber who protected us from below or above. Price 1000 - 2000 CZK.

    Snap hooks, express carabins and descending eights are instruments serving to securing of climbing ways and to protection of co-climber. They excels by its strength and immunity. Price 200 - 1500 CZK per head.

     

    Recommended literature:

    Pískovcové skály v Cechách (Sandstones in Bohemia): guide for climbers, part II., Severní Cechy - Slouka and collectiv, Olympia Praha, 1980

    Labské údolí - Pravý breh (Elbe´s valley - right bank), collective, Decín, Hudy, 1991

    Labské pískovce (Elbe´s sandstones) - Novák Jirí, Alpy - vydavatelství horské literatury 1993

    Lezecký průvodce - Jetrichovicko (Guide for climbers - Jetrichovice and surroundings), HK Varnsdorf, 1997

    Extent: Srbská Kamenice, Všemily, Jetrichovice, Vysoká Lípa, Tokán (digest)

    + ADDENDUM

    Extent: Brtníky, Kyjovské údolí

    Labské údolí (Elbe´s valley) - Rostislav Štefánek and collective, (1998)

    Extent: both sides of Elbe´s valley between Decín and state border

     Horolezecký průvodce - Labské údolí a Belá, Pavel Cerný, Hudy sport, 2001

    Recommended links :

    Ceský horolezecký svaz - pages of Czech rock-climbing association (climbers in Czech republic).

    Ceský hydrometeorologický ústav - weather forecast in Czech republic.

    www.vrcholky.cz - on-line rockclimbing guide of Labské pískovce (Elbe´s sandstones).

    mujweb.cz/sport/pruvodce - pages where you can download rockclimbing guide of several climbing regions around Jetrichovice (6 MB of download, maps, illustrations of climbing paths). 

    CZECH-ENGLISH VOCABULARY OF SANDSTONE ROCK-CLIMBING TERMS

    CLIMBING AREAS WITH DESCRIPTION OF CLIMBING WAYS

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